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Mr. Chairman Does Milan

Mr. Chairman Does Milan

THE MAN BEHIND EMECO AND THE NAVY CHAIR OFFERS HIS ADVICE FOR VISITING ITALY’S SECOND-MOST POPULOUS CITY

In 2000, our company Emeco introduced its first new chair since 1944—a chair designed by Philippe Starck. We didn’t have the money to rent a stand at the famous Salone Internazionale del Mobile furniture show in Milan. Starck had a great idea, though, and he and I hired a panel truck and put a big photo of our new chair on the side. We parked outside the entrance to the show and got a LOT of attention and press coverage. I’ve traveled to Milan for that show for 10 days in April ever since.

This year Milan was more welcoming and beautiful than ever. The weather was, as all the locals said, “unusually” warm and sunny. I didn’t need any of the raincoats, wool jackets or thick socks I had packed. The apartment buildings in Milan have lush “vertical gardens”—on every balcony there are full-size trees, flowering vines that climb up the balustrade and dangle down toward the terrace below. My room on the 10th floor of our hotel had a rooftop view toward the Corso Magenta, and the hotel dining room served the outstanding breakfast I always look forward to, with fruit, cereal, eggs and naughty things like cookies, pecan tarts and chocolate Easter bunnies cakes. Milanese are very into pastries and it’s impossible to turn them down.

OKI SATO The Nendo designer on the Emeco stool he designed.
OKI SATO The Nendo designer on the Emeco stool he designed.

The day before the show started I put on my running gear and ran around Milan to watch the Milan marathon finish line that was near the Duomo, the more than 600-year-old cathedral that marks the center of Milan. I love being a runner—it’s such a great way to survey a town. I ended up in the charmingly restored Brera District, where the boutiques and chic furniture showrooms were setting up their displays for Design Week. The other design areas are Zona Tortona and La Triennale. At the COS installation at Via delle Erbe 2, I went to a great exhibit of designs by the Japanese designer Oki Sato of Nendo.

He is an acclaimed talent, and I understand why after seeing the range of his work. Sato designed the Emeco “SU” Stools that we showed at Salone this year and was an important part of our exhibit at the furniture show.

During the six days of Salone, which is held at a huge convention center about a 40 minute subway (“Metro”) ride from the center of Milan, there are events constantly happening in the Brera district. We had a nice lunch in a restaurant patio on a cobblestone street, then got on the Metro to go out and set up our stand.

We had a great team dinner at Bebel’s Ristorante at Via San Marco 38. Milan restaurants offer mostly seafood or beef and, strangely, hardly any chicken. I’m a brave eater, though, so I ate the octopus with potatoes—a popular spring dish—swordfish, calamari and a lovely shaved-artichoke salad with parmesan. In one restaurant in Brera, I asked for salad and the waiter, who spoke limited English, said, “No salad.” I asked “Chicken?” He said, “No chicken.” I said, “Fish.” He left. He came back 10 minutes later with a plate of whole sardines, thankfully without heads. I ate it.

FISHY The headless sardines served as Plan C for one of Gregg Buchbinder’s lunches in Brera.
FISHY The headless sardines served as Plan C for one of Gregg Buchbinder’s lunches in Brera.

My very favorite event was the Emeco party at Bar Basso. Bar Basso is owned by Maurizio Stochetto, a University of California grad who comes from a family with a tradition of making the best cocktails in Italy. Bar Basso is a small but always crowded bar in an out-of-the way corner of Milan that draws the architect and design crowd every night. It reminds me of my college days at the 901 bar near USC. Emeco gave out Bar Basso drink coupons during the day and our favorite press people, our dealers and Emeco fans all met and drank Negronis. I can’t decide which type I like better: Negroni Sbagliatos or Negroni Wrongs. Maybe they’re the same—you can’t tell the difference after you’ve had a few.

If you read this article and decide to come to Milan during Salone, come to the Emeco stand. I’ll give you drink tickets and we’ll meet at Bar Basso!

Mr. Chairman Goes to Istanbul

The man behind the Navy chair suggests what to eat and where to shop during your next trip to Istanbul

I traveled to Istanbul for the first time in April of this year, arriving in the evening at the House Hotel right on the Bosporus. The Bosporus is the Strait of Istanbul that runs between the European and Asian sides of the city, connecting the Aegean Sea to the Mediterranean Sea. The Hotel House is an historical mansion built in the 19th century and converted into an understated yet elegant small boutique hotel (thehousehotel.com).

This hotel is located in Ortakoy—a lively get-together area with small cobblestone streets, many cafes and traditional Turkish breakfast places. I took a stroll down the cobblestone street to check out the spectacular, brightly lit Bosporus Bridge, with  lights turning blue and yellow and red again.

I thought of Istanbul as a warm climate, so nothing could have surprised me more than a snowfall! Later that evening, I was more even amazed to be serenaded by a collision of pounding hip-hop from the streets and the call to Islamic prayer from the local mosque. At that moment, I truly felt like this was a foreign place, where east meets west and the past meets the future.

My favorite way to explore a city is by running, so the next morning I got up before dawn to get in a little adventure before my business day began. I inquired at the front desk for directions to a good place to go jogging and they looked at me like I had lost my mind. I headed out into the cold and started running along the bank of the Bosporus on the European side toward Rumeli Castle, passing through the town of Bebek. At first I ran by humble cafés and fishermen waiting for their daily catch and then the neighborhood quickly transitioned to beauty salons, gyms, bars, luxury car dealerships, private villas, yachts and, of course, Starbucks. It was as if I were running along the California coast through Newport Beach or Corona Del Mar. The run was farther than it looked on a map, and I ended up with a round trip distance of about 15K. I got back to my hotel exhausted and running late for the day ahead, but I had already seen so much!

How Bazaar Aggressive vendors and wide-eyed shoppers from around the world converge on Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar.

I try to live like a local when I travel to new countries, observing the old saying, “When in Rome, Do like the Romans,” especially when it comes to food. Turkish cuisine is delicious; fresh, flavorful, spicy and healthy. I was never disappointed with any of the Turkish restaurants. My Turkish distributor, Yaman of Mozaik, took me out for a business breakfast to a place in Bebek called Bebek Kahve. This is a hard-to-find classic place for the locals and a hang-out for many celebrities and artists. Bebek is a very hip, rich area of Istanbul on the Europe side.

We enjoyed a traditional Turkish breakfast with Menemen (an egg dish), Turkish bagels, honey and Kaymak (thick Turkish cream) and ridiculously good Turkish coffee. All of the people at breakfast had a good command of English, and our business breakfast ended up being not about business, but mostly an opportunity to become friends. I think the Turkish people prefer to do business with those they know and respect. Turks seem to be very nationalistic and my question, “Why isn’t Turkish yogurt sold in the US?” made them angry. They could not understand why Americans only get Greek yogurt instead of the authentic and superior Turkish yogurt. Also, I discovered that “business casual” dress in Turkey is not all that casual. I was underdressed again, as usual.

Galata Tower Building in Istanbul

One of my favorite restaurants was Borsa Restaurant in the Harbiye area (borsarestaurant.com). Every dish was unique to me and absolutely delicious. I was told it was traditional Ottoman home cooking cuisine. My favorite dinner was at a place Yaman’s business partner Susan took us to called Kosebasi where we had charcoal grilled Turkish kebab and mezes accompanied with Turkish drink Raki (kosebasi.com). I wouldn’t recommend this to my vegetarian friends.

One day when we had a little spare time, we visited the Grand Bazaar, located inside the walled city of Istanbul. The bazaar is a crazy maze of tiny streets and alleys, and you inevitably  get lost  exploring them. Prepare for hundreds of shopkeepers’ cries of discounts to lure you into their establishments. I found an ancient handcrafted carpet inscribed with the mystical letters “USC.” There’s no doubt that this is a tourist trap par excellence!

Istanbul has an intriguing image of the future precisely because it has so rich a sense of the past. It is Europe’s coolest city!